Wednesday, September 14, 2011

August 29th-September 1st Rainier Attempt

Map by Archana of our route
I write this blog many days after my attempt to summit Rainier.  Though it was an amazing experience, I am still struggling with my own personal failure.  I have realized that I needed to be at a higher fitness level, and I have realized the stars did not align that night for me.
To go back to the previous days, we got off to a good start heading as a team to Ashford on August 29th.  We had an orientation, met our guides, and had a gear check.  We enjoyed staying at the Whittaker bunkhouse.
The second day was mountain school.  We hiked about an hour to a steep hill on Rainier.  We learned about the safety and efficiency techniques for mountaineering. We then (briefly) got to work with our crampons on, learn self arrest/ ice axe techniques (kind of fun), and ended with how to walk on a rope all harnessed up.


Excited to start our big day
The next morning we headed back out to paradise to start our Muir trek.  We had an overheated room because after turning out the heat to dry our clothes during dinner, the heater failed to turn off.  I had slept poorly but I felt pretty good going up to Muir.  At the snow field, I followed right behind Ben, one of our guides, as he decided to "make a new trail" up the steep field, making it extra hard!  At the last break, I developed nausea which only somewhat improved later on.  I blamed the cytomax powder, but for all I know, it could have been the altitude. 
Our whole RMI team with guides

Enjoying one of the rest breaks

After we reached Camp Muir we all packed in the RMI bunk house to eat our "dinner" (it was before 4pm).  We then had a meeting with the guides and were given our rope teams.  I assume because I had decided to hike behind the guide up to Muir, I was put third in line on the lead rope team led by Pete, our lead guide.  I didn't think much of this at the time, but was bummed that the rest of Team Bonda was all together on a different rope.

Resh and I in our nook at the bunk house

Arch, Resh, and I at Camp Muir
At Camp Muir, it was beautiful being over the clouds.  We went to bed at six, but no sleep was to come for me or most of Team Bonda.  After several hours of lying horizontal, we were told to wake up and get ready, it was midnight.  In an hour, we had to eat "breakfast", use the bathroom, get our gear ready, put on our crampons, etc.  It was nothing but stressful, but our rope took off before the others were ready and Pete had us moving!  So, now the tragedy of the story.  I was feeling lousy, had a headache, and was somewhat winded without even starting.  Then, I was totally unprepared for how disoriented I felt hiking with a headlamp on a glacier.  We started up Cowlitz glacier and that went okay.  We then went up the rocks of Cathedral gap while hearing rock fall and rushing streams nearby.  I could only look at my feet as I was finding it very difficult to keep my footing and watch the rope and keep the pace.  Crampons on rock are really no fun.  The worst part for me came next heading to Ingram flats.  We had to walk on a ledge of ice and I felt totally outside my comfort zone, and because my crampons kept catching my pants, I was feeling very anxious.  Michael who was behind me was my only encouragement.  Pete just kept saying to watch the rope interval and breath.  At the break, I was told if I could handle my footing and go faster I could go on.  Of course, just getting to the first break under these circumstances and without constructive encouragement was a problem.  I also was "fuzzy" in the head mistaking head lamps of the other RMI team in front of us for asteroids or planes.  In retrospect, obviously, I was having altitude issues. 

Cowlitz glacier and Cathedral gap during the day
Anyways, Reshma and Archana also had had a hard first leg and were turning back.  I initially tried to start the second leg but my legs felt awful and I was still winded.  I then decided to turn back.  The journey back to Muir was also eventful with falls of various team members, including myself. 
Anyways, we made it back to Muir and analyzed every single thing that happened.  I was glad to have the support of Team Bonda.  Steph, my hero, made it all the way to the Summit!  I am so proud of her!

Yes we still did hero shots, but at Camp Muir!



A hug for the rock star, Steph!

Steph and Zeb, one of the guides, hiking down from Muir

Making it to 11,200 feet (Ingram flats) was still the hardest thing I have done.  I had a great six months training with Team Bonda.  As I had never had the opportunity to hike in the midwest, it was really a great summer.  I also am so grateful for all the Team Bondas and my family and friends who supported me through this journey, especially Ajay.  I cannot say that I have not been grieving and have some grievances about our guides and what happened, however, it was still the experience of a lifetime!